When in Maine, see a lighthouse—go on, see several. After all, with 65 historic lighthouses lining the craggy coastline and 57 still active, you could easily fill a day (or a week) with them. Dave and I found it a great way to spend the day driving from Portland to Bar Harbor. Scenic Hwy 1 and Google Maps led the way.
Portland Head Light, Cape Elizabeth, Maine.
Our first stop was the famous Portland Head Light. This active lighthouse sits at the entrance to Portland Harbor, overlooking Casco Bay.
Casco Bay.
The promontory looks like petrified wood but is actually composed of layers of quartzite and dark grey phyllite.
Two crusty, kind-of-old fishermen and their dog.
Completed in 1791, it is Maine’s oldest lighthouse, built before Maine became a state. Under George Washington’s directive, it became the first lighthouse built by the federal government. While the U.S. Coast Guard maintains the light, the town of Cape Elizabeth runs the grounds and adjacent Fort Williams Park. This expansive park offers hiking, picnicking, and recreation, plus spectacular ocean views. We parked for $6 (2-hour minimum), which seemed like a steal.
Words inscribed on the rocks by the keeper’s son, John Strout, in 1912 commemorate the wreck of the Annie C. Maguire.
Portland Head Light is widely considered the world’s most photographed lighthouse. An excellent museum (located in the former keeper’s house) traces the lighthouse’s origins and technology over the last two centuries. The tower is open to the public only one day a year—on Maine Open Lighthouse Day.
Pemaquid Point Lighthouse.
Our next stop was Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, located in Bristol, ME. The original lighthouse, built in 1827, was rebuilt in 1837 because saltwater in the masonry caused it to crumble. Fun fact: Pemaquid Point was the first lighthouse depicted on U.S. Currency—who could forget those state quarters?
We loved scouring these rocks.
Dave and Luci—exploring the cracks and crevices.
Of the three lighthouses we visited that day, this was my favorite. Dave, Luci, and I spent most of our time exploring the peninsula’s rocky shoreline. At times, it felt as if we’d stepped into an Edward Hopper watercolor.
Lighthouse and learning center
For a dollar donation, one can climb the 38-foot tower for a bird’s-eye view of the bay. The keeper’s house is home to a fishermen’s museum, and an adjacent learning center contains additional exhibits, plus artwork for sale by members of the Pemaquid Group of Artists. Entry to the Lighthouse Park is $4 for adults and $1 for children.
Marshall Point Lighthouse.
Our last stop on our mini tour was Marshall Point Lighthouse in Port Clyde, ME. This iconic lighthouse, built in 1832, was made of rubble stone and featured a round 20-ft tower with seven lard oil lamps and a 14-inch reflector, all pointing out to sea. The original structure was replaced in 1857, and the following year they built a new, improved tower at the water’s edge with a Fresnel lens. In 2018, the Coast Guard replaced the Fresnel lens with an LED light encased in plastic and added a battery backup in case of power failure. Times have changed.
I would be remiss not to mention Forrest Gump. Think back, way back, to the scene where Forrest runs cross-country from Santa Monica to “the other ocean.” The Marshall Point Lighthouse tower was his turnaround point.
Turn around, Forrest.
The keeper’s house, with its wonderful museum and gift shop, is open seasonally. The grounds are open year-round and free to the public.
A Where’s Waldo moment for Luci.
Maine’s coast is rich in history, from land to sea. After spending most of my adult life in the 48th state (where everything looks so mid-century), this oceanside glimpse into the past felt refreshing and timely—especially as America celebrates 250 years.