A Bump in the Road

August 28, 2018

Smoke and haze. B.C. is on fire again. After a week of poor air and visibility, we finally got a bit of a break. The wind turned to the east and started blowing the smoke back from where it came. We also got a little rain. Yay! The end result was a couple of days with fairly clear, clean air. Perfect for taking a bike ride on the Cascade Valley Trail in Banff.

One of several ponds along our path to the river.

The rain had softened the trail a bit. It was kind of like biking through a sandy, rocky wash. Every pedal stroke seemed to take more and more effort. Prior to the bridge the trail wasn't bad—a wide, moderate climb.

The new bridge over the Cascade River, replacing the one destroyed in the 2013 flood.

But once across the Cascade river, the trail turned rocky. Whine. I fondly remembered the last time we were slogging up the rocks when we turned back and saw a mother grizzly and her cub cross the road. That had been my personal turnaround point. Oh, and then the time Dave biked to the top of the a hill and after catching his breath, looked up and surprised a giant black bear. No such encounters this time.

Heading back, we enjoyed a quick lunch on the bridge, then continued with a fast, bumpy return to the Jeep. A nice reward for the effort.

Looking back, all I can say is, “Thank goodness for Motrin.”

Ticket to Paradise

August 20, 2018

If at first you don’t succeed… After 80 busy signals, Dave broke through and secured a coveted 11km bus ride and a camping site for Lake O’Hara — the holy grail of the Canadian Rockies

Birdseye View

August 13, 2018

“In this world of ours, the sparrow must live like a hawk if he is to fly at all”—Hayao Miyazaki

Well, then. That’s a tall order. I find similarities between that quote and hiking. If one never learns to climb, then one may never experience the view from the top. OK, let me put that in context. Once in a while, it is important to challenge yourself.

Favorites Large & Small

August 5, 2018

Once a designer, always a designer. There is not a day that goes by that I don't find myself matching miscellaneous items to Pantone swatches. Dave humors my obsession. With that in mind, I thought it was high time to share some of what we love about our summer home.

POOP Bags. Wow, how often do you see a poop bag personalized with the Canmore town logo? My friend Katherine, took a few of these bags back to Phoenix as a souvenir. Bag stands and disposal receptacles are discreetly placed throughout the townsite. No excuses for not cleaning up after pooch.

Roller Skiers. I was so enamored by these athletes that Dave and I went to the Nordic Center to see if I could purchase some skis to join in. The guy at the shop looked at me and said, “You know, these don't have brakes.” He followed up by saying, “Sorry, I really can’t sell these to you in good faith.” Enough said.

Neighborhood Deer and Elk. Walking the pups never seems to be boring.

Feral Bunnies. Canmore has been battling these “wascally rabbits” since the '80s. I tend to side with Ken Anderson, who has lived in Canmore for 28 years. He says, “It makes it sort of a cute, cuddly little place to live.“ https://bit.ly/2AJdA6p

Sewer Covers. That’s right, it’s the logo again. Such a nice touch, don’t you think?

Wildlife Crossings. Did you know that Banff National Park has the largest number of wild life crossing structures in the world? From 1996-2012, over 180,000 passages were recorded. The Elk were the first animals to cross. Bears are slow to learn, taking years to use them. https://bit.ly/2M2pU6s

Wildlife crossing structure in Banff National Park

Quarry Lake Dog Park. Canmorites love their dogs. This park is outrageous. No fences, paths everywhere, acres and acres (hectares!) to roam and a lovely lake to splash in.

The Big Head, Alan Henderson — *The Big Head,* Alan Henderson

I would be remiss in not mentioning a Canmore icon —The Big Head. Alberta artist Alan Henderson built a sculpture for the town using it’s name for inspiration. In Gaelic, Ceannmore (Canmore) means “big head,” so that’s exactly what Henderson produced. The community loves to accessorize it for different occasions. The giant head has been seen sporting a graduation cap, a winter toque, and a summer pirate hat. https://bit.ly/2M2LmrH

No matter how large or small, quirky or different, we love this place.

Sea of Humanity

July 31, 2018

Moraine Lake is a Canadian treasure. Once seen, it is something you do not forget— it is visually stunning. It is also very, very difficult to visit. With only 125 parking spots and a slew of tour buses coming and going, the only real way to get there during the day is by shuttle. What if you are not a shuttle person? Well, if you are a tight schedule, and you really want to see the Moraine Lake, I suggest you become one.

In the past, we could get there by 8:30am and secure a parking space. Not this year. By 7am, the lot was full and the park had set up road blocks. So, we decided to visit after the shuttle service ended. The twilight would be amazing, the crowds diminished. Perfect. After all, it is a 90-minute drive to Lake Louise, so one had better have a plan.

The park website said the last shuttle was at 5:30pm. Great! We walked around Lake Louise (which was a wall of tourists) and then headed to Moraine Lake. Until we saw the BARRIERS. “The shuttles run until 7:30pm,” said a Parks employee. “You’ll have to come back then.” It was 6:30pm and we had an hour to kill. Now what?

We drove to the ski lodge, which was closed. Hmmm. We looked for future hiking trails. We toured employee housing. And we visited the original Lake Louise train station, which was a worthwhile diversion.

An hour later, the barriers came down, and we were free to go—and WAIT. Parking slowly became available. By 8:30pm we were lakeside. The light on the mountains was god-like, and the lake a heavenly blue. Crowds dissipated. No tour buses.

The future is upon us. Shuttles are becoming the only way to see the world’s treasures. And, it seems like there is no going back.

Surfs Up

July 24, 2018

Canmore is known for its athletes, both professional and amateur. Everybody moves around here—climbing, biking, hiking, paddle-boarding. The love of sports is evident. Even so, the locals are always looking for new adventures. A recent tip from our neighbor led us to see the latest mountain trend. River surfing.

So, we took a drive to Canoe Meadows, which is located by the lower Kananaskis River in K Country. The parking lot was almost empty when we arrived at mid-morning. My guess is that surfers aren't necessarily early risers. Undaunted, we took a trail down to the river’s edge. This portion of the river was set up for canoe slalom. There were tons of gates, both red and green, positioned along the river amongst the rocks and rapids. Dave photographed a professional kayaker making her way through the course. Her name was Tracy Hines, and she was there for the ICF Kananaskis Canadian Nationals. She gave us some insight into the sport and what it entails, (besides a lot of strength). Think vectors.

Tracy Hines, Alabama, USA, testing the course.

We continued up the river to a deck that overlooked a large, standing wave. A lone surfer swam his way across the cold river and jumped up on his board. Regardless of location, it seems the ride often ends the same way. Wipeout.

For more information about river surfing in Alberta, visit https://albertariversurfing.com

Burstall Pass

July 17, 2018

Chester Lake was closed due to bear activity. Argh. Why didn’t we check the Park’s trail website before we left? Now what?

After an hour-long ride up Spray Lake Road, we were done with driving. What we needed was a Plan B. As luck would have it there was a B—as in Burstall Pass, just across the road. So, Plan B it was.

The trail took us up an old logging road through forests and lakes to an alluvian meadow. Rivulets of water threaded throughout the terrain. as we made our way across the wet, muddy soil. Surrounded by mountains, we were captivated by Robertson Glacier as we tried in vain to keep our feet dry.

About 4 miles in we started our ascent. The dense forest trail opened up into an beautiful alpine meadow, filled with wildflowers and young spruce. I spotted a familiar track on the trail, which looked disturbingly kind of fresh. No worries, hahahaha. Ha, umm.

We hiked through patches of snow up to the headwall and were rewarded with mountain views in all directions. The expanse was humbling.

Windy and chilly, we tucked into a small island of trees to enjoy our sandwiches. Burstall Pass now ranks as one of our all-time favorite hikes. Not bad for a Plan B.

Crown Jewel

July 10, 2018

Our friend Margaret is not a morning person by nature. But it is summer in the Canadian Rockies, and the true beauty of Lake Louise is best shared early. Really early.

We were up at 5:30 a.m. for a 6:30 a.m. departure. Our forecast was for partly cloudy skies with scattered showers possible.

We arrived around 7:30 a.m. and found parking easily. A steady, pelting rain greeted us. Undaunted, we bundled up in layers with raincoats and hiking poles and set out for the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse. The rain created jewel-like images that were nothing short of magical.

Looking back, with the Fairmont in the distance.

The rain turned to drizzle as we started our ascent. The trail was essentially ours alone. Glaciers surrounded us. We made a steady climb through woods and scree. Part of the trail was out due to water, so we adventurously bypassed it on steep terrain. Awesome.

Photo break. Plain of Six Glaciers trail, Lake Louise, Banff National Park. — Photo break. Plain of Six Glaciers trail, Lake Louise, Banff National Park.

We reached the top and enjoyed the Teahouse's famous chocolate cake and tea. A short trek to view the glaciers was followed, along with some scary stories about Pole Glacier, a.k.a. the Death Trap. Fun.

Mountain solitude met high tourist season on the way down. But, we were content. Not only did we conquer mountains, we conquered CROWDS.

Chillin’

July 2, 2018

If you have spent even one summer in Arizona, this request comes as no surprise.

Joe to Dave: “I have heard about this huge glacier. It is supposed to be amazing. Is it possible to actually go and see it?” Hmmmm.

It is late June, and the mountains are still snowy and beautiful. And, the walk up to Athabasca Glacier in the Columbia Icefields can be chilling. Literally. Chilling. The perfect outing for our friends, Joe and Karen. Request granted.

Karen at Peyto Lake (note snow on coat!)

So, we loaded into the Jeep and headed up Icefields Parkway, the highway that connects Lake Louise to Jasper. By the time we made a pitstop at Helen Lake, it was snowing.

Cameras out at Bow Lake and Crowfoot Glacier. Peyto Lake was stunning. The sky was cloudy with patches of sun. Brisk. We continued on through Saskatchewan Crossing to the Columbia Icefields.

Athabasca Glacier loomed before us. A steady stream of brave souls could be seen making the frigid trek to the base. Tiny ants in comparison to the glacier itself. Joe and Dave joined the mecca while Karen and I held down the fort (hahaha). Hey, it was REALLY WINDY and COLD. We did discover a snowy mountain top in the shape of a gecko.

Athabasca Glacier, June 2018. Look closely to see actual people on the glacier

Notice the snowy gecko on the right. Ok, Ok. It Kinda looks like one, doesn't it?

Upon their return, the look of accomplishment on Joe’s face said it all. Mission accomplished.

Clouds

June 25, 2018

It was not a UFO. But it sure looked ominous. Lenticular clouds are not uncommon in the Rockies. They develop when air moves over the mountains and cools down to the point that condensation occurs. These clouds are different because they don’t move–the passage of air just reforms them again and again.

South Shore Bylot Island, Lawren Harris, 1931 — South Shore Bylot Island, Lawren Harris, 1931

But, I digress. The evening storm front turned into a morning full of visual beauty—the kind of landscapes that artists can only dream about. The stuff of Lawrence Harris paintings. And thanks to Dave’s birthday tee-time of 7:10 am, we were able experience it firsthand. I think my canvas is calling.

Canmore Golf and Curling Club, Canmore, AB  Happy Birthday Dave! — Canmore Golf and Curling Club, Canmore, AB Happy Birthday Dave!

Canmore Golf and Curling Club, Canmore, AB

Chephren

June 20, 2018

I saw it on the CTV news. Actually, it was one of those photo posts from a viewer—you know, the kind they show on the nightly weather forecasts. I hurriedly wrote down Chephren Lake Trail, Banff.

There are so many beautiful hikes that exist much closer to home. However, the image of the lake encouraged us to branch out a bit. The Chephren Lake Trail is a 2-hour drive from Canmore, and is located off the Icefields Parkway. Normally, a long way to travel for a relatively short hike.

We pulled into the Waterfowl Lakes Campground and headed to the trailhead – a bridge crossing over the Mistaya River. From there we ascended through the muddy, twisted roots of an old growth spruce forest. Then, just as we started wondering about the worth of this little excursion, we rounded a corner. The images below speak for themselves.

Rain

June 10, 2018

And then the rains came. Well, kind of. After last summer’s smoke and ash, a rainy forecast is a good, good thing. However, when rain is combined with getting booted out of the house for 4 days due to floor repair, it can evolve into something rather interesting. Our motto for the week was “just get into the Jeep and DRIVE.”

All kidding aside, the week went remarkably well. Monday was sunny, warm and spent in Canmore and Grassi Lake, a beautiful hike just outside of town. On Tuesday, we ventured up a loose gravel road to Spray Lake, followed by a tour of the Kananaskis countryside.

Wednesday was cloudy with patches of sun. A stop at the Natural Bridge in Yoho National Park, was an unexpected pleasure. A hidden gem. We also passed through the Verdant Creek area to view the burn areas from last summer.

However, Friday had to be the most adventurous day of the week. We traveled south, almost to the U.S. border, to Crow’s Nest Pass in a driving rain storm. Then, feeling ambitious, we took a short-cut on a one-lane gravel road (that had collected rain for the past three days) that created a mid-tire mud-fest. After sliding onto asphalt, we arrived at Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump. I think the last time i visited this site I was twelve. Times have changed. This World Heritage site, tucked into a prairie, is where indigenous hunters (if they were very lucky ) drove herds of buffalo over a cliff to provide for their tribe. Note to Hillary - This is the place that songs are made from. Right?

To Market

June 4, 2018

When we do our urban hikes, there is usually a reason behind it. Something to see, a Rocky Mountain Outlook to pick up, or a cappuccino to savor at the end of the trail.

Last week, we hiked downtown to the first Farmers Market of the season. The weather was gorgeous, and well worth documenting. Checked on the wild rhubarb, which I scout with a vengeance. I love to make anything rhubarb – and scavenging for it makes it that much more special.

The trail into downtown Canmore from Three Sisters.

The produce at the market was fresh and delicious. We bought a locally-made elderflower syrup to experiment with. White wine, club soda, and a splash of elderflower syrup…..yes, please.

The reward this week could not be purchased or eaten. Upon our return home, we were treated to a herd of female elk, nestled in the woods just off the trail. Several were quite pregnant, lounging in the shade of the tall trees. Totally worth the trip. Let’s do it again next week.

A Week of Firsts

May 28, 2018

Our transition from the desert to the mountains is a usually a quick one. We jump in with both feet. This past week was full of firsts—some traditional, and some not so…

It seems like we brought the heat with us again this year. We were greeted with temps near 30°c, but fortunately, it didn’t last. Our first walk into town was on a rainy, gusty, Oooooh. Clouds. This was the first real rain we had seen since late last year. The icing on the cake seeing our first elk!

The Grizzly Paw on Main St. in Canmore has been a first stop tradition of ours for close to 20 years. There is nothing better than an order of poutine, a pint of Big Herd Nut Brown, and another pint of Buffalo Stout. Welcome home.

The Barrier Lake Trail was our first real hike of the season. One BIG uphill, with a beautiful payoff. Someday, I will ride my mountain bike up that one. NOT GONNA HAPPEN.

Lastly, one of the most joyous firsts of the week was to discover the new dog park by our home. Dota and Puccini have never experienced the real freedom of running free.. It is so wonderful to see them running, sniffing, and exploring on their own. Go lil’ mountain dogs, go.

AZ in the Rearview

May 21, 2018

Whenever the month of May comes around, Dave gets antsy. The mountains are calling. He calls it a longing—to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life and return to his roots.

And so the trek begins. I have to admit, we have this down to a science. Two 12-hour days, from Phoenix, Arizona to Canmore, Alberta. The Jeep is expertly packed and filled to the gills, with art supplies, hiking gear, mountain bikes and musical instruments. What else does one need? Oh yes. Golf clubs—check.

Our pups, Dota and Puccini are experienced travelers. It takes them about 30 minutes to realize that they aren’t going to the veterinarian. Then, they settle in and it’s smooth sailing.

We leave early. Really early. The sun is rising just as we reach Flagstaff. Then we travel north, up through Lake Powell and Glen Canyon Dam to Utah. We spend the night in Pocatello.

The Colorado River, Glen Canyon Dam, Arizona

Day two, up at 4am. The sun rises in Idaho, then it’s off through Montana. Doggie stops and photo ops all along the way. With any luck we reach the border by noon.

We are home free. We travel through Lethbridge (where my Dad was born), Fort Macleod and Calgary. By late afternoon, we have reached our destination. Our home away from home.

Happy Summer.

#RedforEd

April 28, 2018

I am not political by nature. Let’s just say, I am mostly apathetic. Dave, however, has a passion for justice that does not quit. So, with his encouragement, we made a stand to better our state and our children’s futures.

Pack a Lunch

April 23, 2018

The Chester Lake Trail is one of my Dad’s all-time favorite hikes. He has been hiking this trail for close to 30 years—and has introduced it to many friends and family members. It is a moderate 10.6 km out and back hike with views rivaling anything you will see in a National Park. The first half of the hike is a steady incline, followed by a beautiful meandering trail through lush green meadows. When hiking around the lake, we often take a detour to a place we call Elephant Rock. It is a short, unmarked trail that leads to some enormous boulders worthy of exploring.

In the spring there is an abundance of wildflowers, and in the fall, golden stands of larches. For an entirely different experience, many snowshoe during the winter months on the well-marked trail.

We hike to the lake at least twice during the year. The trail is closed from May 1 - June 29 for wildlife passage. And it can also be closed when a grizzly decides to visit. So, pack a lunch and spend a day in the wilderness. You won’t be disappointed.

Chester Lake Trail, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park.

Spring wildflowers, Chester Lake, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park.

Lakeside. Chester Lake, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park

View from the lakeside portion of the trail. Chester Lake, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park

Our favorite lunch spot, on our own private island.

Desert Snow

April 17, 2018

Even in the driest of seasons, the desert blooms. It is kind of miraculous—giant buds emerging from the smallest of cacti and wildflowers lining the highways and medians, seeming to bloom from nothing at all.

In Living Color

April 14, 2018

When I first flew into Phoenix, over 30 years ago, I remember looking out of the plane window and thinking—argh, what a colorless, god-forsaken place this is! Thankfully, I discovered how wrong I was.

Our Cup of Tea

March 26, 2018

The warmer it gets in Arizona, the more I begin to dream about Alberta. There is nothing quite as special as hike in early June to the Lake Agnes Tea House, at Lake Louise.